Belts

This guide covers replacing the XY-axis and toolhead belts on the Vision Miner 22 IDEX V4. Over time, belts stretch, wear, or fray � causing layer shifting, dimensional inaccuracy, or unusual noise during printing. If your belts are intact and you only need to adjust tension, see the Belt Tensioning Guide instead.

The Vision Miner 22 IDEX V4 has four belts in total:

Belt	Qty	Location
Y-axis belts	2	Run front-to-back along each side of the frame
Tool belts	2	One per toolhead (Tool 0 � left, Tool 1 � right)

This guide covers replacement of all four. If you only need to replace one, skip to the relevant section.

Safety and Warnings

Warning: WARNING: Turn off the printer and unplug it from the power outlet. Make sure the printer is completely powered off before starting any work. WARNING: Wait at least 60 seconds after powering off for the capacitors to discharge. WARNING: Moving parts can pinch fingers. Keep hands clear of the motion system while testing belt movement. IMPORTANT: Belt routing on the Vision Miner 22 IDEX V4 is unique to this machine's kinematics. Refer to the photos in each section to make sure belts are routed correctly.

Tools and Materials

2 mm Hex screwdriver (hex wrench)
2.5 mm Hex screwdriver (hex wrench)
Side cutters (flush cutters) or sharp scissors
Replacement belts (shipped slightly longer than needed � you will trim to length)
Guitar tuning app on your phone (for verifying belt tension at 65 Hz)
Tweezers (optional � helps guide belts in tight spaces)

1. Y-Axis Belt Replacement

Loosen the belt tensioning knob on the front of the machine by turning it counter-clockwise. Unscrew it as far as possible � leave about two full turns of thread so the knob stays on. This releases the spring tension and moves the idler toward the back of the machine, creating maximum slack for belt removal.

Warning: IMPORTANT: Do not remove the knob completely. The spring behind it makes reassembly difficult if the knob comes off.

Remove the old belt from the pulleys and idler. Set it aside � you will use it as a length reference.
Lay the new belt next to the old one. Trim it to the same length or 2�3 mm shorter to account for belt stretch over time.

Info: IMPORTANT: Replacement belts ship slightly longer than needed. Trim to match the old belt or slightly shorter � never longer. This is especially important for Y-axis belts, which have less adjustment range.

Route the new belt through the motor pulley and idler. Make sure the teeth face inward toward the pulleys.
Slide the belt under the clamp. The belt should sit flat � not twisted or bunched.
Check that the belt is slightly sagging under its own weight � not tight, but not hanging loose either. This is the correct starting position before you apply tension with the knob.
Tighten the tensioning knob clockwise. The spring will apply tension as you turn.
Repeat steps 1�7 for the second Y-axis belt on the other side.
Slide the gantry front-to-back manually. Movement should be smooth, and both endstops should trigger at the same time.

2. Tool Belt Replacement � Tool 0 (Left Side)

Warning: IMPORTANT: For Tool 0, the left end of the belt stays short � approximately 10 mm (� � in.) sticking out. The right end is used for tensioning.

Unscrew the two bolts that hold the fan shroud and wire guard. Remove both the fan shroud and the wire guard.
Disconnect the fan wire from the toolhead. Press the orange release tabs on the connector using a 2 mm hex screwdriver while supporting the connector from behind to avoid bending the terminal block holder. Note the wire order: black wire on top, red wire second from top.
Loosen the two screws on the front of the extruder carriage that hold the tool interface (PEEK connector).
Remove Tool 0 Print Head Assembly.
Loosen the four screws on the belt clamp plate at the back of Tool 0.
Remove the old belt from the clamp and pulleys. Keep it for length reference.
Lay the new belt alongside the old one. Trim to the same length or 2�3 mm shorter to account for stretch.

Warning: IMPORTANT: Loop the belt around the motor pulley before you cut it to final length. Cutting first risks making the belt too short.

Route the new belt through all pulleys and idlers, and loop it around the motor. Make sure the belt fully wraps around the motor pulley � give it a gentle tug to confirm it doesn't slip off.
Test movement by manually sliding the toolhead along the rail. It should move freely with no binding. Fix any routing issues now � they are much harder to correct after assembly.
Feed both ends of the belt into the clamp plate at the back. Leave approximately 10 mm (� � in.) of belt sticking out on the left side. The right side will have more belt extending out � this is the tensioning end.
Insert all four clamp screws loosely � do not tighten yet.
Tighten the left-side screws first to lock the short end in place.
Pull the right-side belt end to remove heavy sag. The belt should be just barely taut � not fully tensioned, but no visible droop.
Tighten all four screws in a cross pattern.
Tuck the Z-probe wires under the belt using the hook on the bottom of the Z-probe. The belt helps hold the wires in place and keeps them from snagging.
Reinstall the two front extruder/interface screws. Insert both screws first, verify equal engagement, then tighten evenly.
Reinstall the wire guard.
Reinstall the fan shroud.
Reconnect the fan wire: black on top, red second from top. Press the connector straight in until the orange tabs click.
Test the full range of motion � the toolhead should slide smoothly with no resistance.

3. Tool Belt Replacement � Tool 1 (Right Side)

Warning: IMPORTANT: Tool 1 is mirrored compared to Tool 0. The right end of the belt stays short � approximately 10 mm (� � in.) sticking out. The left end is used for tensioning. IMPORTANT: Unlike Tool 0, Tool 1 does not require removing the Print Head Assembly, fan shroud, and wire guard. The entire procedure is done from the back of the machine.

Loosen the four screws on the belt clamp plate at the back of Tool 1.
Remove the old belt from the clamp and pulleys. Keep it for length reference.
Lay the new belt alongside the old one. Trim to the same length or 2�3 mm shorter to account for stretch. Loop the new belt around the motor pulley first, then trim.

Warning: IMPORTANT: Loop the belt around the motor pulley before you cut it to final length. Cutting first risks making the belt too short.

Route the belt through all pulleys, idlers, and around the motor. Make sure the belt fully wraps around the motor pulley � give it a gentle tug to confirm it doesn't slip off.
Test movement by manually sliding the toolhead along the rail. It should move freely with no binding. Fix any routing issues now � they are much harder to correct after assembly.
Feed both ends into the clamp plate. Leave 10 mm (� � in.) sticking out on the right side. The left side will have more belt extending out � this is the tensioning end.
Insert all four clamp screws loosely � do not tighten yet.
Tighten the right-side screws first to lock the short end in place.
Pull the left-side belt end to remove heavy sag. The belt should be just barely taut � not fully tensioned, but no visible droop.
Tighten all four screws in a cross pattern.
Test the full range of motion � the toolhead should slide smoothly with no resistance.

4. Belt Tensioning After Replacement

After replacing any belts, you must set the correct tension before using the printer. The target frequency for all belts is 65 Hz, measured with a guitar tuning app.

For the full tensioning procedure, refer to the dedicated guide: Belt Tensioning Guide

FAQ

Can I use the old belt as a template for the new one?

Yes � this is the recommended approach. Lay the new belt alongside the old one and trim to match. This avoids guesswork on length.

What if I cut the belt too short?

You'll need a new belt. Always loop the belt around the motor pulley before cutting, and leave a small margin. Trim incrementally rather than cutting to exact length in one go.

Do I have to replace all four belts at once?

No. Replace only the belts that are worn or damaged. Skip to the relevant section for the belt you need.

Why is the belt orientation different for Tool 0 and Tool 1?

The Vision Miner 22 IDEX V4 uses a mirrored kinematics layout. Tool 0 (left) tensions from the right end, Tool 1 (right) tensions from the left end. Mixing this up will result in incorrect tension or belt slippage.

What should I do after belt replacement?

After replacing and tensioning the belts, run the full auto-calibration procedure to verify alignment and dimensional accuracy. See the Belt Tensioning Guide for the tensioning steps.

Troubleshooting

Issue: Belt slips out of the clamp during tightening.
Cause: Belt was not pushed far enough into the clamp, or screws were tightened in the wrong order.
Solution: Loosen the clamp screws, re-seat the belt fully, and tighten the short-end side first before pulling the tensioning end.

Issue: Toolhead binds or resists movement after belt installation.
Cause: Belt is not fully looped around the motor pulley, or belt is twisted on an idler.
Solution: Remove the clamp plate, re-route the belt, and verify it wraps the motor pulley completely. Test movement before re-clamping.

Issue: Belt tension reads well below 65 Hz with the knob fully tightened.
Cause: Belt is too long or the idler was not moved all the way to the back before cutting.
Solution: Loosen the clamp, trim the belt shorter, re-seat, and try again. Make sure the idler is pushed all the way to the back of the machine.

Issue: Belt sags on one side but not the other (Y-axis).
Cause: Belts are different lengths, or one idler is not positioned fully to the back.
Solution: Verify both idlers are pushed to the back. Re-trim belts to equal length using one as a reference for the other.

Support

Vision Miner Support

Email: support@visionminer.com
Phone: +1 (949) 522-4422

Belts

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